We did this once before and is was helpful for a few people in here. So, lets try this again. Anyone got any annoying car problems that you just can't solve? Give us a few specific's and we will see if someone in here can offer some sound advice or previous experience with the same issue.

Car Talk pdxradio.com style. I like it.

I think tips for improving mileage might be the best topic of the day.

Mine is: check your tire pressure! You could easily be losing 5+ mpg due to poorly inflated tires, not to mention the premature wear.

I got my 10 cent/gallon Safeway discount today, and filled the tank on my '67 Dart, so it only cost me $50 (gulp).

1989 nissan sentra wont start replaced fuel filter,plugs ,wires coil ,distrubuter{SPElling} ,fuel pump works and starter is ok, ..what next?

Timing Belt? You've done so much already that is what comes to mind. What are the particulars leading up to it becoming inop? Was it previously running then quit?

joamon did this. Nice Dark!

I'm thinking the same thing. Does it crank really easy?

One way I've checked this in the past is to pull the plugs, crank it, then put them in and crank it. There should be a difference, if the belt is working.

Might have just slipped though.

Even if it slipped you'd still get sputter and misfire not to mention bent valves.
Could just pop the valve cover and if the valves ain't moving while it's cranking then 100% for sure it's the timing belt.
Do you know what drives the distributer on these types of engines? If it's driven off of the cam, then with the cap off, the rotor should not spin if the cam is not moving.

Computer or ignition module failure?

Plugged fuel lines (do you have fuel pumping up to the TBI?

Does it turn over? Does it seem to want to start but won't fire? Or does it not fire at all?

If you have fuel and air, you are missing spark. Do you have a timing light? Clip onto any plug wire and see if light flashes while you crank. Or, pull a plug wire and see if it arcs to ground while cranking.

If timing belt fails, I think you would hear the sound of pistons slapping open valves while cranking, but that's also a possibility.

All of the smoke came out of the wires on my MG.
Can anyone tell me how to get it back in?

It was just the insulation burning off. Go to the hardware store and buy a couple of cans of that spray foam insulation. That oughta fix it.

NEXT.....

Tips and Tricks you'd never think of:

(Not related to Dudes problem as he says Fuel Pump is working)

Ever had a car will full tank of gas and it wont start?
Everything checks out but no fire.
Had this happen to me in an Safari Van.
I took a hammer, crawled under the side of the van were the fuel tank was, and gave the metal tank sever hard raps with the hammer.
It started right up.
What happens with in-tank fuel pumps is that the piston in the pump will become stuck not allowing it to pump gas. There is usually a strainer to keep small particles from getting in but wax and/or varnish can form making it stick. The vibrations from hitting it with a hammer will free it up.
A repair shop will cost you about $600 for replacing the fuel pump.

Find that in Chilton's.

The Yugo is making a clunk, clunk, clunk noise the last few days. I opened up the hood and looked around. Every thing looks good. It does it every once in a while but lately its been happening a lot more often. Any suggestions?

A can of Fix-a-Flat™.

HMMM, sounnds good. I'll look into that!

You sure it's coming from the front and not that dead body rolling around in the trunk?

That's kind of like telling your IT guy" My computer is broke, fix it". I just tell them that there is an input error between the chair and the keyboard. Some don't get it.

Maybe need a little more to go on to be of any help.

"The Yugo is making a clunk, clunk, clunk noise the last few days. I opened up the hood and looked around. Every thing looks good. It does it every once in a while but lately its been happening a lot more often. Any suggestions?"

These are normal to hear while driving a Yugo.

However, if you are hearing these sounds while it is parked in the driveway, get an exorcist.

Or poltergiest.

Thedude, you should double check the grounding strap.

Amus, that smoke is evidence of why the British like tepid beer: Lucas Electronics.

Justin, you could always learn to speak sweetly in the native tongue of your car. After trying to woo it, you might check your tie rod ends, motor mounts and shock mounts if the clunk is increasing day by day. Some clunks aren't in the engine, but sound like they are in a front wheel drive car. There is a good group of Yugo lovers at Mirafiori to help out.

Darktemper, that is great advice! It is similar to a Volkswagen fix where you give the starter a whack when it is jammed or one of the tines snaps off and there is a dead spot.

My advice to everyone is to marry a strong woman so she can help push!

Thanks for getting serious again, LS.

I second the shock mounts for Justin's problem. I've had more mysterious clunking sounds accounted for by a loose shock.

Another 'whack it' fix: if you have an old sealed beam headlight that has burned out, give it a good thump with the side of your fist, and it might turn right back on. I got an additional two years out a "burned out" headlight with this method.

Your welcome Edselehr, and thanks for your sage wisdom. The excellent tire pressure advice is not only good for mileage, but a potential lifesaver too. I'm gonna remember the headlight trick.

One thing about fuel pumps on older cars that can be helpful is two filters. If it is one of the in trunk units -- like my old Saab 99 -- you can put one between the tank and the pump and the pump and the engine. This way if the pump dies and vomits itself into the line, the bits are captured before it fouls the injectors. One other tip on Saabs and other fancy pants imports: My OEM fuel pump was listed for hundreds, but was easily replaced by a VW Rabbit/Golf unit for around $35.

"My advice to everyone is to marry a strong woman so she can help push!"

Or push the pedal when you bleed the clutch.

"Lucas Electronics": C'mon now, Littlesongs! Remember the Jaguar...

Tepid beer is a good thing. Especially when the fizz comes from nitrous.

I still miss the 'ol V12...and I pushed it all by myself once or twice...

"Remember the Jaguar... "

It will be interesting to see what Tata does with the brand.

89 nisan sentra timing chain is intact. car was running a little funny before it quit{had run in this matter before but added fuel injection cleaner and problem stoped}I was traveling 55 on I-5 when car sputtered and quit almost as if out of gas have not been able to restart since

That really sounds like it's the electric fuel pump to me. I have had this happen twice and the timing belt problem once. Both are exactly as you describe, car just died and would not restart. If you are certain the valves are opening properly and that you are getting spark to the plugs that only leaves the fuel system. This is a Throttle Body type of injection right?

> It will be interesting to see what Tata does with the brand.

I was about to say that India is like a tiger waiting to pounce. After reading that Tata has bought the Jaguar and Land Rover brands for $2.3 billion, I think it would be more accurate to say that the tiger IS pouncing!! Look out! There is a tiger on the loose!!

Recently, I had a car experience that made me wish that I had been thinking about my 9th grade shop teacher. The shop teacher had cautioned that running premium grade oils in an old car could lead to leaks, especially if the car had been run on cheap "K-Mart brand" oil previously. The explanation was that the cheap oil leaves deposits that can plug up small holes. Premium oils, on the other hand, have detergents that are designed to remove these deposits.

Some months ago, I took my car in to Midas to have the oil residue power-flushed out. I thought that I was doing the car a favor. Instead, what I found is that I now have to top off the oil every two months or so. The oil is very slowly seeping out from the oil pan gasket. When I change my oil, I notice that there is an oily film on the outside of the oil pan, right below the gaskets. I figure that at this point, it is not worth the cost of getting new gaskets installed. Might it be a good idea for me to tighten the bolts on the oil pan the next time I change my oil? Or is there a chance that I could further damage the gasket or the bolts by doing that?

I see no harm in snugging them up a little. Depends on the state. I would use a torque wrench and check the ratings so you know where you stand on the material limits.

TheDude: you said the fuel pump "works"... maybe not enough pressure?

Alfredo: The "power flush" is probably a scam.

If you can change your own oil, why can't you change the gasket? It can't cost that much.

for that matter, if the car's a beater, just pull the pan, scrape it clean and seal 'er up with a tube of form-a-gasket.

I knew a guy in HS who reassembled his whole engine with that stuff... it ran, for a while anyway!

We had a guy in High School auto shop with one of those Mazda's that had the rotary engine in it. (A Beater) He ran it without oil for a week before it seized.

A whole engine?

Hilarious!

Hey, if you don't ever plan on taking it apart again, the ultimate in sealing is JB Weld. Fast, effective and permanent. There are a coupla cars running around out there that are NEVER gonna leak, but they are NEVER gonna come apart again either.

It's a trade off! As in I trade the car quickly because I know it won't ever come off!

(was a kid ok?)